5280 Week: Zengo

The first restaurant on two-week culinary odyssey (aka 5280 Week) was Zengo.  This upscale downtown location is immediately impressive upon sight alone.  It has a dark and elegant décor of reds, blacks, and sensuous curves.  To put it simply, it feels very fancy, and very cool.  Coincidentally, this was our Valentine’s Day dinner, and the atmosphere could not have been more appropriate for such an occasion. 

The name aptly comes from the Japanese word meaning “give and take”, which is what the cuisine attempts to do.  It fuses elements of Japanese and Latin American cooking to create something that is not exactly either.  It is new, distinct, and very enjoyable.  Part of the success of this approach comes from the subtle manner in which it is done.  Our entrees, for example, would not be an obvious example of either ethnic style, but instead borrow small elements from each.

The appetizers were slightly less subtle, but still very good.  Holly ordered Kobe Chorizo Quesadilla, which was actually more like a meat empanada than a traditional quesadilla.  It came with Oaxaca cheese and salsa verde.  I had the “Angry Zengo Roll”, a spicy yellowfin tuna roll flavored with both wasabi and sesame chipotle.  While they were both good, neither one really blew me away.  They were enjoyable, but failed to distinguish themselves as I had anticipated.  The attempt at fusion was a little too blatant and heavy handed.  The reality is that a “chipotle spicy tuna roll” does not taste all that much different or better than a traditional spicy tuna roll.   It was a high quality roll, but no better than a similar role from a quality Japanese restaurant.

At this point I was happy, but not impressed.  That changed the moment our entrees arrived.  The lady ordered the Ancho Dry Rubbed Top Sirloin with an onion marmalade and selection of grilled vegetables.  I do not have the words to say how delicious it was.  The steak was rare and tender enough to be cut with a butter knife.  I found myself taking incredibly small bites and savoring them slowly, drying to draw out the experience.  The cherry tomatoes, green beans, and baby potatoes were expertly roasted and equally fantastic.  Not a scrap of food was left on the plate.

Not to be outdone, my plate shined just as bright.  I had the barbequed salmon served with wasabi mashed potatoes, grilled brocollini, and a chipotle egg sauce.  For this plate the sizes of my bites were just as small and the time between them just as long.  I dreaded the idea of finishing it.  The fish, the potatoes, even the brocollini, were each so flavorful.  The chef took several powerful tastes, which might normally overpower each other, and presented them in such a way that each was bold, enjoyable, and complimentary.  It was truly wonderful.

If the main course were the only consideration, then Zengo would be my top Restaurant Week pick.  But as with the appetizers, I was less than thrilled when it came to the desserts.  They were not bad, but simply unimpressive.  In comparison to the amazing fish and steak I had just finished, the desserts seemed to fall flat.  Part of it could be that the selections were really not my favorite dessert types.  One was orange custard with a ginger shortbread crust.  The crust was tasty and the homemade pistachio ice cream that topped it was very good, but the custard itself did nothing for me.  I would have preferred a full serving of the ice cream instead of just receiving it as a small topping for the main dessert.  The other was a chocolate passion mousse cake.  Again, it was tasty but unremarkable.

We had these 3 course meals for only $26.40 a person, and it was certainly worth it.  I would highly recommend Zengo to anyone who is serious about good food and adventurous eating.  They are doing some very interesting things with traditional items.  True food lovers will be pleased.  It should be noted, however, that it is somewhat pricey.  Most entrees are between $20 and $30, and are not very large serving sizes.  I would further recommend focusing more on the entrees than the appetizers or desserts.  The main dishes are where this restaurant truly excels.

If you are in the mood for a nice night out, then head to Zengo.  Order a drink from their extensive bar (including many specialty cocktails), soak up the soothing atmosphere, and sink into a dinner you will not soon forget.

1610 Little Raven St.
Denver , CO 80202
720-904-0965